Netgear POE Header Fix

Use this guide to fix a detached POE Header.

Summary
Equipment	Netgear GS728TPP 24p POE Network Switch
Fault[s]	No POE Front connection panel pushed in
Possible Cause[s]	Loose or detached POE Header Missing chassis screws
Tools/materials Required	Philips PH1 & PH2 Screwdriver [x1] M3 x 4mm Pozi Countersunk Screw [max. 9] M3 x 6mm Pozi Countersunk Screw [max. 8] Fast-drying Silicone Compound [Loctite SI 5940]

POE Fault/No POE: You can usually see if the POE Header has become detached by looking through the side panel:

Front connection panel pushed in or loose: This is usually obvious, and is caused by the chassis screws coming loose:

GOOD TO KNOW: These switches have two types of screws holding the lid onto the chassis:

8 x M3 x 6mm Pozi Countersunk [for the rack ears]

9 x M3 x 4mm Pozi Countersunk Screw [for the lid]

It is important that the right length screw goes back in the right place, as using a longer screw to hold the chassis in place can introduce the risk of screwing into the PCB!

So for the Lid, ONLY use the shorter 4mm Counter sunk screws:

1. Start with removing the rack ears [1] to reveal a hidden screw each side [2], then remove the smaller screws – 3 per side / 1 at the rear [3].

Once all screws have been removed, pry the rear of the lid up [4], and pull the lid towards you [5].

Locate the POE connector and socket to the right of the board [6] [with rear of switch facing you], and check for any other loose connections, [7].

Re-seat the header[s] and place a small amount of silicone compound/RTV on the left side where the connector meets the socket [8], and on the connection at the other end of the ribbon cable

While you have the switch open, make use of the opportunity and clean any dust from the internal components and fans.

Replace the lid in the opposite order you removed it, taking care to ensure that protruding metal tab with the thread for the rear chassis screw goes behind the chassis [10]. Use a thin screwdriver if necessary.

Replace all chassis screws, starting with the smaller lid screws [x7] – 3 per side / 1 rear.

REMEMBER to only use. M3 x 4mm Pozi countersunk for the lid!

Flip the switch over and check the bottom two M3 x 4mm screws at the bottom [11]. Replace if missing: